Katoumaria

[Gregory]

I put in the followiing piece in the "General" section of the Forum, and then thought that it would be best here, so am putting it in again in this History section. I would be grateful for any further info on Katoumaria. As I said, I will put in the full result of my research into the matter by the middle of September. The Australian Friends of Kastellorizo have given me some good information already. Here is a repeat of what is in the General section:
At the Kastellorizian Association of Victoria clubrooms on 13th September, Evelyn Salvaris and myself (Connie Gregory) will demonstrate Katoumaria. We are intending for it to be heaps of fun. I learnt how to make it from my late mother-in-law Eftihia Gregory (nee Pallassis). It has excited a lot of interest, because everyone likes to eat this Kastellorizian dish but young people, and often their parents, don't know how to make it. Food is an excellent way to keep young people interested in their heritage. I have started asking questions about its origins and lots of interesting data is surfacing. Iwill be putting together a little pamphlet for the demo and will post it to this site in due course. In the meantime, if anybody has anything they would like to say about Katoumaria, please do post a message to this site.

AND if you are visiting Kastellorizo remember to ask where you can order Katoumaria, and Strava, because there are four resident ladies who make these dishes very well.

If you don't know what Katoumari is you are missing out on one of the great sweets of Kastellorizo.
Cheers. Connie G

[Administrator]

Connie,

It sounds like your forthcoming demonstration of katoumari preparation will be highly informative and a must for those looking to learn more about the culinary traditions of Castellorizo.

Good luck with it!

My understanding of the origins of the word katoumari is that it derives from the Turkish word katmer which means a 'multiplicity' of pastry - a very suitable description of katoumaria!

Contrary to popular belief, the sweet is not unique to Castellorizo and variants of it are to still be found along the southern shores of modern Turkey. I am not aware, however, of any other Greek islands where a sweet by that name is prepared.

Nicholas

[Gregory]

Thanks Nicholas. I was on the trail of Katmer and had some correspondence with a Turkish cook in Zurich. Now that you have confirmed the association between Katmer and Katoumari, I can write that with confidence! I am very sure now that Katoumari comes from Katmer. I also found that it is documented in the Literature that the Oghuz Turks (originally from the Ural-Altay region of Central Asia,) prepared Katmer. "Their cuisine included yahni (stew),kebabs,Toygo corbasu (lit. "wedding soup", a soup made from wheat flour and yoghurt), Kamuz (a traditional drink of the Turks, made frm horse milk), Pekmez (a syrup made of boiled grape juice) and halva made with wheat startch or rice flour, tutmac (noodle soup) yufka (flattened bread),KATMER (layered pastry), chorek (ring-shaped buns), bread, clotted cream, chese, milk and syran (diluted yoghurt beverage), as well as wine". Source: www.information is-the-coolest.com (search for Oghuz Turks).

Vassiliki Chryssamthopoulos, thought that the original word might have come from the Byzantine word 'katimerion'.

Of course the bottom line is that the culinary tradition of Castellorizo is definitely influenced from the corresponding traditions of its close neighbours. Whatever way you look at it Katmer (and Katoumari) go back a long time in history.

Thanks again Nicholas for clearing up the origin of the name "Katoumari".

Somebody told me that in parts of Cyprus something similar is made - which would not be surprising if there are Greeks, (and maybe Castellorizians), and Turks there.

Connie G

[Gregory]

The Katoumari challenge at the Kastellorizian Association of Victoria was a great success. Vera Constance, the judge, brought a huge dish to serve, the two participants - Connie and Evelyn - also brought along several Katoumaria, and added to this were those demonstrated and cooked at the club. So, there was lots to go around. The photographer from Neos Kosmos documented the whole process. Some tried their hand at the event and several people took dough home to have a go at cooking at home. The result is that many more people will now be making katoumaria. Maybe next year we will do a Strava demonstration!
Connie G

[Gregory]

Here's my Katoumari recipe which was handed down from my mother-in-law Eftihia Gregory (Palassis):

KATOUMARI

(Makes four Katoumaria):
1 kilo plain flour
3 cups (750ml) warm water
800g butter approximately
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon vinegar
Ground cloves, sugar, and cinnamon

Place flour in bowl, add mixed liquid (water, oil and vinegar) stir with a wooden spoon to combine and then knead for five minutes. Turn out on bench and knead for a further 5-10 minutes on floured surface until pliable and non-sticky. Rest for a while in the fridge. Divide into four portions. Roll out one portion until quite thin, (a long piece of dowelling does a better job than a rolling pin), keeping a circular shape. Brush liberally with melted, but not hot, butter. Let stand a few minutes. Make a hole in the centre and roll the dough back on itself, forming a long rope, and then cut the rope. Run hands along rope and squeeze gently. Coil both ends until they meet, butter one coil and twist it on top of the other and then roll out to a little less than the size of the frypan. (I use a large Tefal pan). Place generous amount of butter in heated pan. Cook katoumari slowly for about 20 minutes each side until golden brown. Remove and sprinkle with sugar and spices. Break up to serve, adding a liberal dose of sugar and spices. Place on a large platter. Discard butter in pan before frying the next one. Or, have two pans going at once!

Notes: Four is a lot of Katoumaria – so divide recipe to make two. Can be fried and frozen whole, wrapped in foil and then in a freezer bag. . Can be reheated by several methods, e.g. zap quickly in microwave and then refry before breaking up, or reheated whole or broken up in the oven before adding sugar and spices. Dough can be made up to a day ahead, wrapped in oiled clingfilm and refrigerated.

Enjoy! Connie G